Pattern Hack: Izzy with Long Sleeves

Climbing the Willow has a free pattern,  The Izzy has been all over the Facebook sewing pages.  I am sure that almost every mom sewing for a little girl has made at least one.  Well we have made several.  You can see our examples HERE.  In case you have not seen it, the Izzy is a sweet little top that can be lengthened to make it into a tunic or dress.  In cooler climates you can layer it over a tee shirt.  The bonus with this free pattern is that the sizes have been expanded up to a girls’s size 12.

We have been sewing with a lot of knits lately.  The kids love them and M has gotten to the point that she really fights wearing anything that is made up in a woven.  She also objects to layers.  I know,  for a Minnesota girl that is really something.  I knew that I would make this in a knit so I went to the drafting table to see if I could somehow draft a long sleeve for the Izzy top.

izzy pattern

After measuring M’s arm from the shoulder to wrist, I started with the back pattern piece and drew the curve of the armhole to start my sleeve.  I measured from the shoulder point to the wrist adding one inch to allow for hem and seam allowance.

izzy sleeve pattern

Then I simply tapered the sleeve top and bottom to come in at the desired wrist width.  My little model has a tiny arm and wrist, so my final wrist measurement will be 6″ around.  When laying out your sleeve for cutting the top will go on the fold.  The stretch of your fabric will go around the arm.  It is important to remember that this is designed for woven fabric, so if you are making it out of a knit you may want to size down.  I, of course, did not and I have a feeling this will be a little big on M.

Construction for this sleeved Izzy is going to be slightly different than directed.  You will sew your shoulder seams as directed. izzy backI sewed the center back seam as there will be no closure at the neckline.  The other option is to lay the front and the back on the fold so that there is no seam at all.    The stretch of the knit allows easy on and off without a closure.  Attach the bodice main with the bodice lining at the neck.  Turn and press.  You will now treat the bodice as one.  Match the middle of your sleeve to the shoulder seam and pin the sleeve evenly to the front and back.  Sew.  Because knit does not fray, I did not worry about finishing the edges and simply sewed with my sewing machine.  Now match your side seams and sew from the sleeve edge all the way through the bodice side seam.izzy sleeve

You will finish your Izzy according to the directions given. izzy finished

I did some double needle top stitching at the neck the wrist hem and the bottom hem.  Now I will send it off in the mail and keep my fingers crossed to see if it will fit.  The week waiting for it to arrive is always nerve wracking.  Do you sew for someone that you don’t have easy access to?

Happy Sewing, Donna

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