For this week’s PR & P project we revisit a pattern that had given us trouble in the past. Since we we’re going to be reworking the sleeve we decided this would be a fun place to incorporate the stripes and dots theme by creating a lined button up sleeve. Here is how Donna did it.
You will need 4 sleeve pieces, 2 of your main color and 2 of your contrast color. Give yourself a little extra room to make up for the seam allowance and bulk- like 1/4″ to your width.
Sew them right sides together along the sides and across the bottom. Turn.
Make 2 tabs, I cut mine 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Fold in half right sides together and sew along one short end and the long side. Turn.
Make a buttonhole on the ﬁnished short end of your tab.
Attach the unﬁnished end of the tab to the contrast side of your sleeve about one third of the way down from the sleeve cap. I used a bartack method, then sewed the button to the sleeve right over the bartack.
Bartacking is a method of anchoring that uses a short zigzag, i used a 2 on my machine, and a short stitch width (Bartacking can also refer to a handstitch). You may need to
experiment with your own machine to get a length that you like. This bartacking method is something I learned in my tailoring days and can be used to secure corners of
pockets to prevent ripping and is most usually seen on the sides of back pockets in men’s ready made pants. I like to use it to anchor any area that may be stressed with frequent use or pulling.
See my button hides it on the front of the dress.
Set your sleeves as you would normally do. After the sleeve was set I ﬁnished sewing the underarm seam.
This sleeve application is pretty easy and can be adapted to any garment.
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